While visiting Ed Birdsong in Salinas I learned how rich the soil is and how kindly the weather is in the valley where he lives. The farmers are able to grow four seasons. The mountains protect from the winds off the Pacific and the surrounding ranges drain into the Salinas river providing moisture. “The Country’s Salad Bowl”. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salinas_Valley While driving along Highway U.S. 101 the observer sees row upon row, acre upon acre, field upon field of greens growing from far left to far right. Miles and miles of row crops in varying phases of production; some just seeded and sprouting and other in full growth and glory and still others just harvested and lying full of remnants ready for the plow. The mathematics staggers if one considers each head of greens is worth fifty cents. Just let the eye run along one row and you lose track quickly of the value in the present field. The word “million” leaps out.
I arrived here about the 24th of April. Ed and I had a good visit. He is a tough and gentle guy. Ed works as a doctor in the prison nearby and he has had to stiffen his resolve toward limiting the attention given each inmate. He has a fairly good idea of what people need to function and his job is to provide a level of care to allow the population at the prison to serve their time. I don’t envy Ed his position. It must be difficult to hold the line with the prison population.
I stayed with Ed for about 4 days or so and during that time I was able to get out of the valley and visit the area known as The Pinnacles. http://www.nps.gov/pinn/index.htm I drove about 24 miles into the hills to the southeast of Salinas. I pointed the SAAB up into the Gabilan Mountains to find the park. The visitor center was open and had a film available to see what to expect as one drove or hiked along the roads and trails. I bobcat was shown along with deer and other creatures. As it turned out I saw a bobcat on the road as I exited the park. I was not sure what I was seeing crossing the road ahead of me. About two hundred yards ahead an animal was trotting slowly from right to left. I though it was a coyote but the shape was too square so maybe it was a deer. No…not tall enough for a deer. Then I saw it was possible a bobcat but by then it had entered the undergrowth on the side of the road. I pulled up slowly to the point I saw it disappear under the trees and there is was waiting for me. The cat was large and had stopped to peer over its shoulder at me. We had our moment and it slipped away down an embankment out of sight. Worth the trip
Ed Birdsong is a good host. He provided me many ideas of how to see and use the neighborhood and take advantage of the terrific eateries in the area. I look forward to seeing Ed again. Thanks Ed.
Alice Waco lives in a lovely part of California. All of California is lovely but Santa Rosa is absolutely charming. I like Alice and her way of seeing the world. We had a nice time together although it was short. During my stay with her I felt my first pangs of homesickness on this trip. During the trip up from Ed’s place in Soledad and across the Golden Gate Bridge on the 28th of April I started to feel weary and a wave of nostalgia crossed my heart. I noted it and moved on up through Marin County into Santa Rosa. North of San Francisco the larger trees begin to show up. Redwoods are prevalent. The people here love their trees and it shows. Many of the public spaces even in the populated areas have specimens squeezed into them. Gardens, if large enough, have a redwood started somewhere within.
Alice and I walked every day. The kind of walking we did would always turn out to be too much but we didn’t mind. Some days the temperature rose far above what I was used to. I had not felt warm until Santa Rosa. The thermometer registered 94 F. by early afternoon. That is too warm for me and I needed to sit and make sure I was hydrating. Alice is a terrific host. I was fed and kept comfortable in her home for three days and we parted having gotten to know each other more than before.
My next scheduled stop along the road to the Pacific Northwest was far up into Northern California. I wanted to see Patricks Point State Park. I was here back in the late 70s when I visited a friend I’d met in Hawaii. I stayed in Arcata then and Trinidad was familiar to me. This is a pretty part of the world. There are many locations that grab the eye. The trees now boast Redwoods and Sitka Spruce and the undergrowth grows rich in rhododendron and other flowering shrubs. I called the ranger at Patricks Point and was assured that there would be a tent site available for me on the 1st of May.
I pitched the tent and drove into Trinidad for dinner before it was too dark to see. I ate well and I slept like a log that night. It had been a long drive through beautiful vistas. The urge to stop and photograph everything was intense. The road was equally intense. Switchbacks and winding hills took a lot of focus and effort to negotiate. It was a long day even though I was enjoying every mile.
After a good night in the tent I was down on Agate Beach next day for a long, long walk. I found several pretty stones and a short length of driftwood to make an incense burner when I return to Maine. (There is that wave of homesickness!) The two days I stayed here were enchanting. I love this region.
My next scheduled stop was in the state of Washington. I was in touch with Rick and Jan Krouskop, friends from AVP. http://www.avpusa.org/ These two lovely friends are also connected to me on Facebook. Jan and I talk more on there and we have been scheming my visit for about a year. I left Northern California and decided to cut across the top of California and pick up the interstate, I 5, someplace near Grant’s Pass in Oregon. The highway from Crescent City, California to Grant’s Pass is absolutely gorgeous. If you get the chance to drive this road do it. Make sure the car is tuned and has good tires and suspension though.
Once I got to the interstate my driving habits changed. I no longer was into it for the fun but for the need to make time and move along. My patience with the road was diminishing and I was paying close attention to the time between stops. I was tired and no longer was I enjoying the SAAB. Now it was a chore to drive and to pay attention. The weather now was much cooler than it had been all trip long. The rain was also a new addition. I am sensing it is time to go home to Maine.
I drove the interstate as quickly as possible and I reached the area south of Seattle, Washington that night. I rigged the car for sleeping when I got to a rest stop and spent a restful period tucked into the back. During the night it rained solidly. The sound of rain on the car roof added to the peace inside. I was zonked.
When I awoke I contacted Jan and Rick by phone. We agreed I should try to arrive on Sunday after noon. The final few hours of travel were a struggle. Seattle is a big town and the ride through Portland, Oregon was also a bit of a chore. I’m not used to heavy traffic or to cars cutting in and out in front of me. Grumble, grumble.
I arrived in Bellingham, Washington pretty far north in the state. I have been here before but my memories don’t connect right away. I never saw Mt . Ranier on this trip and I only saw a peek of Mt. Baker the final night I was here. The clouds stay low and drift among the highest peaks so one cannot catch sight of them. Oddly the best view of the Cascades I got was during my drive East after my visit. The view was through my rear view mirror as I traversed the hills beyond on my way to Spokane. The range was fantastic with its snow covered peaks as seen from the high desert.
Back to Bellingham. Jan and Rick are great hosts. I really liked being at their home. I was relaxed and we talked all over the place. So much to say and share. I like their style of living and their neighborhood. Bellingham is a gentle town with gentle people. I needed an oil change for the SAAB while here and that was a treat. The mechanic I found was a champ/winner. Bruce took good care to check out the car from stem to stern, top to bottom. He pronounced the car in excellent shape and I was on my way.
I thank Jan and Rick greatly for my comfortable stay. We had fun, fun, fun. Nice people. I left early on Wednesday morning for Spokane at the other end of the state. I am now moving toward the east and I want to see the northern parts of this country. I also want to get Maine.
Hey George, good to read your update. Oregon and them there Cascades are my country! What a trip you’re having! Oh, and Ed Birdsong sometimes comes to what formerly was his mother’s cottage next door to ours here in Bayville. Haven’t seen him for a long time now, though, and it was good to hear about where he is and what he’s doing these days. ~ Robert
‘Tis an attractive region, Robert. The geography appeals and the residents are all more sane than those I’ve found elsewhere. Good to hear from you.